(m)Oktoberfest

I like to use hybrid yeasts to make lagers, particularly WLP029 German Ale/Kolsch, despite concerns expressed by others I would never get that “crisp lager character” using such a method. Well, I used the following recipe to make a beer that took 1st place in its division in a local BJCP comp with a score of 40 points. Not one judge mentioned anything about the beer not tasting like a traditional lager. An xBmt comparing WLP029 to a traditional lager strain seemed to confirm this notion!

Packaging Volume: 5 gallons
Estimated OG: 1.052
Estimated SRM: 11
Estimated IBU: 23
Estimated ABV: ~5.2%

Boil Time: 90 Minutes

GRIST
4 lbs 15.0 oz      Vienna Malt (46.5%)
2 lbs 7.0 oz        Munich Malt – 10L (22.9%)
2 lbs 2.0 oz        Pilsner Malt, German (20%)
8.0 oz                 Crystal 60 (4.7%)
8.0 oz                 Honey Malt (4.7%)
2.0 oz                 Special B (1.2%)

HOPS
~20 IBU               Saaz – Boil 60 min
16.00 g               Saaz – Boil 15 min

YEAST
1.0 pkg               WLP029 – German Ale/Kölsch

PROCESS
– Mash at ~152°F for 60 minutes (4.75 gallons)
– Sparge with 170°F water (4.5 gallons)
– Chill to 56°F prior to pitching yeast starter
– Ferment at 58°F for 4-5 days then ramp up to 65° over the next few days
– Cold crash for 48+ hours after FG is stable (10-14 days)
– Package, carbonate, enjoy!


All recipes are designed for 5 gallons of packaged beer (5.25 gallons into the fermenter), 75% efficiency on a batch sparge setup, 1.15 gallon/hour boil-off, Tinseth is used for IBU, fermented in primary only, all additions before 30 minutes are measured by IBU contribution (not weight), yeast starters are made using the BrewUnited yeast calculator, Irish Moss/Whirlfloc added at 15 minutes left in boil, some salts are added to my filtered soft water. Consider using quality software to scale these recipes to your system, I prefer BeerSmith. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask!
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82 thoughts on “(m)Oktoberfest”

  1. White labs says of their WLP029 that “Optimum Ferment Temp.65-69°F, 18-20°C (Does not ferment well less than 62°F, or 16°C, unless during active fermentation)”. Have you often used it at high lager temperatures without any problem?
    Which other yeast would you recommend if someone were concerned about it?

  2. Hello, have this beer in the fementetion tank, but it has stuck on 1.020, what fg do you normaly get on this one?

    1. I get about 1.012 SG on this one, usually only takes a week or so. I might suggest gently swirling the beer and, if you haven’t already, bumping the temp to ~70˚F.

  3. This has a boil time of 90 min, but a first hopping at 60. I was curious if 90 min boil was really needed? Have you done this with 60?

    1. Of course you can, I might recommend a slightly cooler fermentation, though it might work fine at 58˚F as well. I’ve fermented this beer with 34/70 at 50˚F and it came out great!

  4. First off, fantastic site!! I’m planning on brewing this next weekend and I was just inputting it into Beersmith. Would this be classified as a Marzen? Also, this is probably a silly question, your 15 minute hop addition is “16.00 g” I take it that the g stands for grams?

      1. Thanks for the quick response. I’ve been wanting to try the no spare method you talk about. Would this be a good one to try it on?

  5. Ok love your site and can’t wait to try this and your Helles Recipe (Both use the hybrid yeast).

    If I only had the option of throwing this in a fermentation chamber at 50F or one at 63F which would you choose? (I know its a random question…long story)

    Thanks!

  6. So using the quick lager method and Saflager 34/70, here is what I’m guessing my STC-1000+ temp profile should be (once I see bubbling in my airlock):

    sp0: 50
    dh0: 120 (5 days)
    sp1: 50
    dh1: 36 (1.5 day)
    sp2: 65
    dh2: 144 (6 days)
    sp3: 65
    dh3: 84 (3.5 days)
    sp4: 33
    dh4: 0

    Does this look ok?

    1. That ought to work fine. Keep an eye on the beer post-pitch, as I’m sure you will, and make sure there’s a krausen within 48 hours of engaging the profile, that way you’ll ensure the yeast has been working for at least 3 days before the ramp begins. Cheers!

  7. If I were to brew this recipe using the Brew In A Bag method, would I need a 12-14 gallon kettle?

    Given the 9.25 gallons that would be added to begin with plus the grain bill using BIAB, would a 14 gallon kettle be required?

    1. With BIAB, your volume losses are actually a bit less compared to batch sparge, which is what the recipe was designed for. I’ve brewed this beer using BIAB in my 14.5 gal kettle, there was quite a bit of room left during the mash. By my very rudimentary calculations, this batch scaled to BIAB would require just under 8 gallons of strike water. Hope that helps!

  8. I’m on the hook for a (m)Oktoberfest for drinking in 3 weeks. If I use this grain bill, mash as you suggest, and use a high atten./floc strain like 04, think it’ll be drinkable if I use your ale fermentation schedule?

      1. Used 04 at 63 as I can only do dry yeasts.

        But this is one fabulous beer recipe and it turned out great!!
        Thanks for sharing!

  9. Would you mind posting any of the minerals you use or the water profile that you think works best? I plan on building the water profile up from distilled water.

  10. This beer is VERY good! I began brewing in FEB 14 and this recipe was my 30th brew – also my first to go into a keg. The only aspect of brewing that I have not cracked the nut on is amending water. Even using filtered tap water this beer rocks! I really like 029 and I’m looking forward to brewing other recipes using this yeast. Additionally, I really appreciate the scientific approach you guys are taking to the art of brewing. Keep up the good work!

  11. Having trouble figuring out my 60 min hop addition. I can’t math.

    Doing a 10 gallon (packaged) batch and the hops are saaz 3% AA. Do I need close to 4 oz for bittering? Is that right?

    1. In order to get to the targeted IBU, that may be the case. Feel free to swap out the Saaz 60 min addition for something like Magnum or Warrior, it works fine, I’ve done it a few times!

  12. AlottaTrubble

    I know this thread has not had any activity in a bit, but I wanted to give a sincere THANK YOU for this recipe specifically steering me towards this hybrid yeast. Had the neighbors over on Easter, and they killed my 5 gallons in a couple hours! This is the 7th all-grain BIAB I have done and it turned out great. The schwarzbier is in the fermenter as we speak and I will be going through the list of lagers to see if they taste as good as this beer.

    A couple questions on style. My beer was a beautiful amber color, but looking at the style sheets for Oktoberfest beer, should it be lighter? The color seemed to align more with a Marzen style perhaps? Noob question so be gentle….

    Also, should I be able to use this yeast for most other lager type beers as well as the method of fermentation, (i.e. 58 degrees for 4-5 days then raise the temp)?

    Again, Thank you sooooo much! I am still trying to choke down a lemon grass saison I brewed at the beginning of the year. Wish that would kick as quick as this one did!

    1. Marshall Schott

      Märzen and OFest used to be basically the same, I believe the new guidelines might delineate them.

  13. I’m brewing with bottled water because city water is terrible. The bottled water profile is Ca 2.4 Mg 1.0 Na 4.5 SO4 1.8 Cl 6.5 from their website. I am concerned that there is not enough Ca and Mg for the yeast. Do you have a target profile for the Oktoberfest?

  14. Curious as to why “Yellow” and not “Amber”?

    Is there an IBU criteria/range for “Malty”, “Balanced” and “Bitter” profiles?

    1. Marshall Schott

      I prefer the higher sulfate of the Yellow profile in most of my lagers, hence I use it for styles ranging from Helles to Schwarzbier. While pre-set profiles are great, over time people who mess with their water sometimes develop particular preferences. Cheers!

  15. Marshall, I brewed this beer on May 21. Fermented at 58* for 5 days, then ramped to 65* for 13 days now. I have not checked FG. I do not have enough time for cold crash, bottle condition, and refrigerate before I get too busy with work. I want to leave the beer in the primary fermenter until July 4th. Should I leave the fermenter temp at 65* until July 4th, or set it at what temp?

      1. FG is 1.006, will recheck in 3 days. I forgot to check pre-boil gravity. Post-boil OG was 1.042, a little low compared to your notes. I was spot-on with mash temp. Stirred every 15 minutes, had to add a quart or so to keep temp even. I thought everything went well. Beersmith had me batch sparge in 4 steps. Thanks for your time.

      1. So you don’t do the quick lager method? How does it affect the flavor profile fermenting that yeast at that high temp. Also, does your mash temp stay around 152 for the whole 60 minutes? I’m not planning on sparging.

  16. Long time lurker, first time to comment. What size starter would you suggest making for this beer? I plan to brew this this weekend. BTW – had the great pleasure of meeting Malcom at Beer and Sweat a few weeks back. Man, his beers were amazing, and he was a super nice guy. Thanks again!

    1. Malcolm is a badass, to be sure, and a great a brewer!

      When it comes to starters, I used the BrewUnited starter calculator to determine the right size. However, for the last few months, nearly every lager I make has been fermented with a rehydrated sachet of Saflager W-34/70 at 66°F. They all come out super clean and delicious, and they can be turned around in as little as 2 weeks.

  17. Just made this beer, tweaking for scale and taste to an OG of 1059. Finished exactly as predicted on the day predicted and after crashing made for a delicious beer with a strong caramel note. My grist was all Euro and Inused the WLP029. Thanks!

  18. Yo Marshall I’ve been using WLP 029 and my beers are generally not crystal clear, even fining with gelatin, until they sit in the keezer for about a month. I batch sparge in a cooler with a bag and then gelatin in primary for 48 hours after I’ve cold crashed for 24. Once clear the taste is definitely crisper and more lager-like in my experience. Maybe water or some other variable of method is in play here? By the way, thanks for all you do. You’re the David Hume of beer.

  19. I brewed this BIAB with 1.6% melanoidin malt as I couldn’t get any honey malt in the UK. Pitched onto half a 34-70 yeastcake from a Helles. Fermented at 18C with a 2 day D-rest at 21C. Cold crashed to 0C and fined with gelatin. Carbed up for 4 days and the result was the best beer I’ve ever brewed 2 weeks grain to glass. Will definitely be making this a staple. Cheers!!

  20. What sort of water profile do you use for your Oktoberfest? Also do you ever mess with adding acid to your batch sparge water? Thanks

  21. I don’t have a setup to do full all grain recipes, do you think if I used 3.3lbs briess goldpils Vienna extract and 3.3lbs briess Munich extract (40/60 munich/pils) and did a mini mash with the specialty grains an a pound of Munich that I could get something close to this?

  22. Marshall, I pitched a rehydrated packet of 34/70 and fermented at 66. It’s now a week out and it’s been at 1.020 per my tilt now for a few days. I upped the temp to 68 just to see if that would help and no change. Should I pitch another packet of 34/70? Thanks

  23. Total newbie here (haven’t brewed my first batch yet, still doing research). How do you measure hops by IBU contributions instead of weight?

    1. Use recipe design software and make sure to input the AA% of the hops you’re using. I prefer BeerSmith. From there, you add the amount of hops it takes to achieve the desired IBU.

      1. I’ve read a lot of good things about BeerSmith. Seems the best tool for the job. Thanks for the reply!

  24. Just made this recipe in early August using Imperial Dieter yeast. After lagering for a month, I tapped the keg for the start of Octoberfest this last Saturday. Wow! What a great beer recipe. Thank you for sharing.

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